Hidden complexity of vanilla: Overcoming sustainability challenges and targeting taste diversity

19 Jul 2023 --- Vanilla is one of the world’s most popular and widely used spices, but it is also one of the most complex, varied and especially versatile, industry highlights. Depending on where the vanilla bean is grown, how it is harvested and how it is processed, it can have different notes and nuances that can complement different cuisines and recipes.

Speaking with representatives from Solvay, ADM and Synergy Flavors, we explore the diversity of vanilla, its history, challenges and potential. We also examine the differences between natural and artificial vanilla and the challenges of sustainability and traceability.

Each bean is a different world
Industry underscores how vanilla is a multifaceted spice that can enhance the flavor of many dishes and desserts. 

“Vanilla is incredibly versatile, with its notes varying depending on where the vanilla bean is grown. These nuances can take consumers’ taste buds on a journey around the globe, from Madagascar, Uganda and Tanzania to Papua New Guinea and Indonesia,” Shanyn Seiler, global product marketing, vanilla at ADM, tells Food Ingredients First.

“Madagascan vanilla may provide the familiar profile of beany and bourbon notes consumers expect, whereas vanilla sourced in Uganda may have a more moderate, creamy profile. Tanzanian vanilla has caramelly, sweet brown and maple notes, perfect for pastries and savory options like stews and sauces.”

“In contrast, vanilla from Indonesia is woody and smokey, excellent for complementing the sweetness in chocolate and dairy-based recipes, while floral, fruit and marshmallow-like notes can be found in vanilla from Papua New Guinea.”

The versatility of vanilla allows it to deliver both familiar and adventurous flavors.

The versatility of vanilla allows it to deliver both familiar and adventurous flavors.Although species and geographical origin play a role, vanilla quality is largely influenced by the growing process itself, notes Philip Ashman, sweet flavorist at Synergy Flavours. 

“Allowing vanilla beans to mature on the vine fully is vital, as premature removal can negatively affect quality. After two months, the vanilla bean will have reached its maximum size, but it will take eight to ten months for the pod to reach full maturity. To ensure the highest quality vanilla, only fully matured pods must be used.” 

History and challenges of vanilla
Corinne Duffy, global technical marketing manager at Solvay, walks us through the history of vanilla.

“The vanilla bean is the historical source of the vanilla taste, starting with the Aztecs in the 15th century. And while its popularity has certainly not declined over the centuries, availability has long been an issue.”

“Vanillin, the signature molecule of the taste and smell of vanilla, is found in minimal percentage in a cured vanilla bean. Today, less than 1% of vanillin is derived from actual vanilla bean production.”

“Compared to vanillin from beans, the synthetic vanillin, developed since the late 1890s to support the demand, today reaches around 20,000 metric tons per year. This affordable and abundant alternative has helped the vanilla taste consumers love to be used in a wide range of mainstream sweet food applications.” 

The challenges in the vanilla category are numerous, from price fluctuations to shortages to quality consistency issues and sustainability problems.

“The worldwide sourcing relies mainly on Madagascar, which is highly dependent on climatic situations (cyclones, for instance), and more and more impacted by climate change. Regularly, bad crops impact the global offer.”

Natural vs. artificial
Seiler adds that vanilla extract taps more into clean label consumers that want “close-to-nature” ingredients. At the same time, she explains that product formulators seeking a specific vanilla flavor profile might look to a natural vanilla flavor, which offers “more flexibility” than vanilla extract to enhance or minimize particular flavor characteristics. 

“Pure vanilla extract can add a delicate dimension to applications across different categories, including beverages, bakery and savory products. Unlike vanilla flavoring, vanilla extract is richer and blends well with ice cream, yogurts and shakes,” Seiler says. 

“For example, a protein powder might impart unwanted chalky tastes and natural vanilla flavoring can smooth out those off-notes. Formulators also may lean toward concentrated flavoring to extend a product’s shelf life, as it retains its vital vanilla essence over time.”

Nonetheless, “if product developers are seeking further cost optimization,” artificial flavors and synthetic vanillin can provide a cost-effective way to bring vanilla flavor to a product.ADM works on its vanilla chain through programs like its joint venture in Madagascar.

“However, they can lack depth and complexity, delivering more of a one-dimensional flavor profile.”

According to Seiler, another drawback of artificial vanilla is labeling, as artificial flavors and synthetic vanillin do not provide a true consumer-preferred “closer-to-nature” positioning.

Joining the conversation, Bassi says that the uncertainty over vanilla supply and prices makes it hard to control the cost of food products containing extracts, meaning that sometimes, reformulation is required. 

“Vanilla extract is also unsuitable for all vanilla-flavored food items due to some production constraints and labeling requirements.”

“Natural flavors can replicate an extract’s distinct profile or offer more versatility. Natural flavorings can include a quantity of extract for authenticity but may also give a new direction, for example, if the vanilla needs to be fruity, buttery, or creamier.”

“Non-natural flavors can also offer the same profiles but are best in terms of price and reliability. A non-natural vanilla flavoring is not subject to the natural disasters and politics that can affect the availability of vanilla extract. This has seen a shift over time toward natural and non-natural flavorings.”

Familiar and innovative flavors
Seiler explains that vanilla continues to be one of the most sought-after flavors in the world “for its nostalgic familiarity and complementary profile.”

“It can pair perfectly with a range of different flavors, unlocking opportunities for new sensory experiences. We saw the demand for vanilla increase throughout the global pandemic as home baking surged and consumers sought comfort in familiar flavors in the form of cookies, snacks and ice cream. This increased demand for vanilla beans, extract and paste hasn’t subsided yet.”

Affordable and abundant alternative vanillin has helped the vanilla taste to be used in a wide range of mainstream sweet food applications, according to Duffy from Solvay.“Vanilla can add a delightful note to floral-forward flavors like lavender, adding sophistication to desserts and beverages. On the other hand, vanilla combines well with citrus, bringing a mellow sweetness to refreshing, bright and tangy notes that is excellent in desserts, bakery and beverages. We also see combinations like vanilla and matcha balancing pungent, earthy notes with sweet and creamy flavors in frozen treats and teas. Further, vanilla combined with other spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg or cardamom can add richness and depth to certain savory dishes.”

Vanilla can also stand independently Seiler highlights and influence the flavor profile in beverages or dishes, providing an enhancing characteristic similar to a dash of salt or citrus zest. 

“Typical uses may include bakery items such as cakes, muffins or cookies, but vanilla is also used to support other culinary and savory applications. It can give depth to chicken and pork dishes and cream-based sauces served over pasta.”

“This flexibility has made vanilla integral to many global cuisines, including Caribbean, African, Middle Eastern and Indian food.”

Also speaking on the versatility of vanilla, Ashman says that “vanilla vinaigrette, caramelized vanilla pork and spicy vanilla edamame are just a few innovative examples.”

“As an enhancer, vanilla can elevate dominant flavor notes such as savory, spicy, and even sour, creating opportunities to innovate and put twists on this core favorite.” 

Nonetheless, Synergy Flavors’ primary research found that when the consumers surveyed were presented with a choice, 34% of consumers preferred to see the classic Madagascan vanilla on the product label, followed by natural vanilla flavor at 31%, while 16% of consumers do not have a preference. 

“This shows that consumers prefer flavors which are seen as traceable and authentic. Therefore provenance claims can help manufacturers to position a product as more premium.” 

Sustainability and traceability
Duffy from Solvay highlights the rising consumer demand for food manufacturers to “work on enhanced ethical sustainability, more renewable feedstock and reduced carbon footprint of products.”

“The food industry faces growing demand around healthier, more clean label or plant-based foodstuffs but also more indulgence or novel taste experiences.”According to Synergy Flavors research’, 34% of consumers preferred to see the classic Madagascan vanilla on the product label.

Solvay supplies vanillin, produced from a by-product of the rice industry. By valorizing this by-product, natural vanillin production does not take any resources from the planet nor compete with the food chain.

“The vanilla value chain counts a lot of players, from the farmers, cooperatives to several intermediaries, until the major food & beverage companies and finally the consumers. It can result in a lack of transparency along the chain or irregular business practices risk,” Duffy expands.

“To sustain the vanilla ecosystem, all the value chain players have a responsibility to support farmers’ living income and better ethical practices along the chain, thanks to higher transparency & traceability.” 

ADM works on its vanilla chain through programs like its joint venture in Madagascar, supporting consumer demands for ingredient transparency by tracing vanilla beans back to their farm of origin. 

“Our direct-from-farmer supply chain creates quality ingredients, including Fairtrade and Madagascan organic certified vanilla extract. Specifically, the program directly impacts vanilla farmers and their communities through improved income diversification and access to quality healthcare, education, medical care and more,” Seiler explains.

Synergy buys large quantities of vanilla from Madagascar, with the company noting that they “take responsibility to contribute to the sustainable and ethical management of the supply chain in this region.”

“Synergy only works with suppliers that use traditional curing methods, which promote environmental and economic benefits. We have also built generational relationships through years of collaboration with a network of partners in Madagascar,” underscores Ashman.

“Beyond this initiative, we have also worked to improve the lives of farming communities in Madagascar. We have worked with the Madagascar Development Fund, a non-profit, non-governmental organization that partners with other organizations and individuals to finance and manage development projects in Madagascar,” he concludes.

By Marc Cervera