Lab-grown coffee brewing in Finland as scientists develop cells from plant biotechnology

16 Sep 2021 --- As global coffee-growing regions face climate hits and a barrage of difficulties, cultivating one of the most beloved drinks is becoming more challenging. The Technical Research Centre of Finland (VTT) has successfully produced coffee cells in a bioreactor through cellular agriculture – an innovation that can help make coffee production more sustainable.

VTT is developing coffee production through plant cells in its laboratory in Finland. In the process, cell cultures floating in bioreactors filled with nutrient medium are used to produce various animal- and plant-based products.

In an in-depth interview with FoodIngredientsFirst, Dr. Heiko Rischer, principal scientist and research team leader of plant biotechnology at VTT, delves into the key drivers, consumer trends and market dynamics behind this re-imaging coffee production.

Cultured coffee
Conventional coffee production is notoriously associated with several problematic issues such as unsustainable farming methods, exploitation and land rights, notes Rischer. 

Conventional coffee production is notoriously associated with several problematic issues such as unsustainable farming methods. (Credit: VTT)“Growing demand and climate change add to the problems. Recently there are more and more alternative production systems developed based on biotechnology rather than conventional farming, commonly termed ‘cellular agriculture.’”

He says the idea is to provide alternative routes for such commodities that are less dependent on unsustainable practices. 

“For example, these solutions have a lower water footprint and less transport is needed due to local production. There isn’t any seasonal dependency either,” Rischer continues.

With increasing demand and numerous sustainability challenges concerning traditional coffee agriculture, there is a pressing need for alternative ways of producing coffee. 

Due to the high demand for coffee, more acreage is required to produce enough coffee beans, leading to deforestation – particularly in sensitive rainforest areas.

Bioreactor produced coffee cells 
The first batches produced by VTT smell and taste like conventional coffee.

“This project has been part of our overall endeavor to develop the biotechnological production of daily and familiar commodities that are conventionally produced by agriculture. For this, we use many different hosts, such as microbes, but also plant cells,” Rischer details.

The process is based on the production of undifferentiated coffee cells (biomass) in bioreactors. Cells are subsequently harvested and dried. 

The process is based on the production of undifferentiated coffee cells (biomass) in bioreactors. (Credit: VTT)“The dried powder is then roasted – so far simply at different roasting grades (light to dark roast) as a proof of concept. In this case, we did the roasting ourselves, but we are looking for collaboration with professional roasters to perfect this step,” he says.

“In producing our first cups of coffee, we had to go through ethical approvals internally to VTT in order to be able to taste it for the first time. In parallel, we did the roasting and then we stored it completely sealed and cool until the approvals were done.” 

The final step a week later involved brewing and tasting. This was the same ‘drop coffee’ common in Finland and the cups were tasted by the team and a panel of trained tasters. 

“My personal favorite was the dark roast,” Rischer underscores. .

Regulatory framework 
Currently, all coffee material produced in laboratory conditions represents experimental food and would require regulatory approval by the US Food and Drug Administration to be marketed and sold to consumers in the US. 

In Europe, lab-grown coffee should first be approved as Novel Food before being marketed.

Technically the production process is based on existing and established technology such as conventional bioreactor operation. 

Rischer estimates that he and the team are only four years away from ramping up production and having regulatory approval in place.

In Europe, lab-grown coffee should first be approved as Novel Food before being marketed.The whole procedure required input from several disciplines and experts in the fields of plant biotechnology, chemistry and food science.

“In terms of smell and taste, our trained sensory panel and analytical examination found the profile of the brew to bear similarity to ordinary coffee. However, coffee making is an art and involves iterative optimization under the supervision of specialists with dedicated equipment. Our work marks the basis for such work,” adds Rischer.

“Growing plant cells requires specific expertise when it is time to scale and optimize the process. Downstream processing and product formulation, together with regulatory approval and market introduction, are additional steps on the way to a commercial product. That said, we have now proved that lab-grown coffee can be a reality,” he outlines. 

The whole procedure required input from several disciplines and experts in the fields of plant biotechnology, chemistry and food science.

Sustainable food & beverage production
The true impact of this scientific work will happen through companies who are willing to re-think food ingredient production and start driving commercial applications, stresses Rischer.

“VTT collaborates and supports large enterprises and small companies in adopting opportunities in their product development. Ultimately, all efforts should result in more sustainable and healthy food for the benefit of the consumer and the planet,” he concludes.

By Gaynor Selby

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