Climate change can impact flavor of gin and tonic, flags UK research

Changing weather patterns may be altering the flavor of the juniper berry, the botanical ingredient that gives gin its signature flavor and aroma, a UK study has found. 

Scientists from the Heriot-Watt University’s International Centre for Brewing and Distilling (ICBD) in Scotland have discovered that the berries vary significantly in taste based on where they are grown and weather conditions at harvest.

Matthew Pauley, assistant professor at the ICBD, says, “A wet harvest year can reduce the total volatile compounds in juniper by about 12% compared to a dry year.”

“This has direct implications for the sensory characteristics that make gin taste like gin.”

The research studied juniper berries from seven key European producers: Bosnia, Albania, Macedonia, Serbia, Italy, Kosovo, and Montenegro.

Each region harvested berries with distinct chemical profiles. Some compounds showed high variability between locations. The research notes that these differences could affect the finished gin product’s woody, resinous, citrus, and floral notes.

“Just as wine enthusiasts talk about ‘terroir’ — the influence of geography on grape flavors — we’re seeing that juniper has its regional signature,” says Pauley.

Changing weather patterns also showed variations, with 2017 being wetter than 2018. The scientists found that increased rainfall meant more extended drying periods, affecting the composition of the berries.

Professor Annie Hill, the study’s supervisor, says: “The least water-soluble compounds are most affected by post-harvest drying. For distillers, the flavor profile can shift depending on the harvest conditions.”

“For a multi-billion-pound industry, which is increasingly focused on consistency and quality for its discerning consumers, this represents a risk.”

Rethinking sourcing and production

Premium gin makers often source the berries from specific regions to maintain a consistent “house style.” However, as climate patterns change, distillers may need to reorient sourcing strategies and production parameters or tweak their blending techniques.

“With an ever-changing climate affecting growing conditions globally, it’s increasingly important to monitor the effect on existing juniper crops and be aware of emerging growing areas,” says Pauley.

Based on the research, gin makers can make more informed decisions about sourcing, harvest, and drying times, potentially ensuring that the final product delivers on the expected flavor profile and maintains it to dispute environmental uncertainties.

The scientists are confident that the industry can adapt.

“Every year, the gin industry takes part in ‘the big sniff,’ where the current juniper harvest is evaluated, ahead of everyone buying in their supply for the next one to two years,” says Pauley.

“So long as we are vigilant of the changes and curiously explore different areas for harvesting the dry, piney, signature botanical of choice — your gin and tonic is in safe hands.”

The findings are published in The Journal of the Institute of Brewing.